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MILO M. TURNER'S 

IMPROVED 

TAIIjOB SYSTEM, 

BY 

MRS. N, J, TURNER'S FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, 

FOR DRAFTING 

Ladij^, Mjjae-f and QMldren 's C ijig,. 



Simplicity, Speed, Perfectness. 



We guarantee that this System is free from all those abominable defects 

which make trying on and fitting a practical necessity ; that the 

drafting is done in less time than required to cut out by a cut 

paper pattern; that there can be no risk or difficulty in 

learning its use from the printed directions. 

Patented 1865, by Milo M. Turner. 

Copyright 1884, by Milo M. Turner, 

All Rights Reserved. 



Send for Price List and Terms to Agents, 



address: 



1884 



i 



MILO M. TURNER'S 

IMPROVED 

TAIIjOB BTBTflM 



* 

BY 

MRS. N. J. TURNER'S FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, 

FOE DBAFTING 

Ladies , Mtiifif §i|i ©MMiiE'i ffii®ltt^% 



Simplicity, Speed, Peefectness. 




We guarantee that this System is free from all those abominable defects 

which make trying on and fitting a practical necessity ; that the 

drafting is done in less time than required to cut out by a cut 

paper pattern; that there can be no risk or difficulty in 

learning its use from the printed directions. 



Patented 1865, by Milo M. Turner. >^ 
r J Copyright 1884, by Milo M. Turner. 

r ' ^ ' All Eights Reserved. [)£Q 



Send for Price List and Terms to Agents, 



ADDEESS: 

1884, 



-:' ■ 



i 




PREFACE, 



There is known to be among the learned authors of this science 
two distinct modes of drafting by actual measurement and by division 
measurement. Only proportional parts of the person, arm size and neck, 
can be fitted by division measurement, and then only when correctly 
applied. Either actual or division measurement can be applied either 
perfectly or imperfectly by square, arc, machine or pattern. No form of 
system is any assurance or disproof of correctness. Systems by square 
rule as often draft by division measurement upon the model principle as 
systems of any other form. Systems by square rule give the same 
amount of cloth above the arm size, usually or always for all ladies or 
for all ladies having the same bust size. This is manifestly an error, 
Milo M. Turner's Improved Tailor System is the only system of actual 
measurement in pattern form. All other" systems in pattern form are 
imitations and absolutely worthless. 

I have royal right and surplus ability to put my system up in the 
form of square, arc, machine, pattern or rule and 1 prefer for general use 
the pattern form, because most simple and rapid. The manner of draft- 
ing by system in any other than pattern form is necessarily laborious, 
vexatious, complicated, and in the hands of the average dressmaker un- 
skilled in the art of delineating gives a slouch fit. Any dressmaker who 
"buys Milo M. Turner's Improved Tailor System for less than twenty 
dollars straight money must owe a debt of gratitude to both agent and 
author. 

MILO M. TURNER, LL. B., 

Cincinnati, Ohio. 



DESCRIPTION 



DESCRIPTION OF FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, NOS. 
1, 2, AND 3. 

Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 drafts the back and sidebody, No. 2 
drafts the front, No. 3 the sleeve. 

Form-Wrought Patterns Nos. 1 and 2 have each six sides, viz: 

Centre, (long straight side). 

Base, (short straight side). 

Side or Dart Rule, (from base to arm). 

Arm, (from side or dart rule to shoulder). 

Shoulder, (from arm to neck). 

Neck, (from shoulder to centre). ti 

Form-Wrought Pattern No. 3 has four sides, viz: 

Outside, (long curved side). 

Inside, (curved side opposite). 

Head, (short curved side). 

Hand, (straight side). 

The name of each side is printed upon the edge of the Form- Wrought 
Patterns. 

Find each side of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 and its name. Of 
Form- Wrought Pattern No. 2. Of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 3. The 
sides of the Form-Wrought Patterns are used as rules to draw the out- 
lines. 

Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 contains eleven rows of figures, No. 2 
contains fourteen rows of figures, and No. 3 contains eight rows of 
figures. 

Each row of figures is called a scale and is named by the letter or 
word at its side 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H and I, shoulder and centre scales, on 
Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1. 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K and L, shoulder and centre scales, 
on Form-Wrought Pattern No. 2, 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H. scales on Form-Wrought Pattern 
No. 3. 



L 



Each scale represents some measurement. 

In the following reference is made to Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1 
to find the scales to diagram No. 1 to find the dots. 

Centre scale is back length; is used only to draw line 1. 

The waist lines running from the waist length E scale to the centre 
are used only to move to lower end of line 1 before making dot A. 

A scale, is waist length, is used only to make dot A. 

B, A, C, K, describe the back form, are used only to make the 
four dots not lettered. 

B scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot B. 

C scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot C. 

D scale, is chest circumference, is used only to show that worthless 
imitations of this system incorrectly give the same amount of cloth 
above the arm size for all ladies having the same chest circumference. 

The shoulder scale is used only to measure the length of line 5. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 
to find the scales to diagram No, 2 to find the dots. 

E scale, is waist length, is used only to make dot A. 

S, I, D, E, describe the side form, are used only to make the four 
dots not lettered. 

F scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot B. 

G scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot C. 

H. scale, is waist circumference; I scale, is waist length, are used 
only to make dot D. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 
to find the scales to diagram No. 4 to find the dots. 

Centre scale, is back length, is used only to draw line 1. 

H scale, is waist circumference, is used only to make dot A, 

The waist lines running from the waist length E scale to the centre 
are used only to move to the lower end of line 1 before making dot B. 

G scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot B. 

C scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot C, 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 2 
to find the scales to diagram No, 3 to find the dots. 

Centre scale, is front length, is used only to draw line 1. 

A scale, is chest circumference, is used only to move to top of line 1 
before making dot B. 

B scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot B. 

The waist lines running from the waist length L scale to the centre 
are used only to move to lower end of line 1 before making dot C. 

C scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot C. 

D scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot D. 

E scale, is chest circumference, is used only to make dot E. 

F scale, is difference of the chest and waist circumference, is used 
only to make dot F« 



6 

G scale, is difference of the chest and waist circumference, is used 
only to make dot G. 

One star ( * ) is used only to make dot H. 

H scale, is difference of chest and waist circumference, is used only 
to make dot I. 

Two stars (• * * ) are used only to move to dot I before making 
dot J. 

Three stars ( * * * ) are used only to make dot J. 

I scale, is difference of chest and waist circumference, is used only 
to make dot K. 

Four stars (****) are used only to move to dot K before mak- 
ing dot L. 

J scale, is waist circumference ; K scale, is waist length, are used 
only to make dot L. 

The shoulder scale is used only to measure the length of line 5. 

Remark 1. — It will be observed that we usually move the chart five 
times to locate the dots differently for different forms. Worthless im- 
itations locate all the dots without these movements, making only one 
form for all sizes. Any system in pattern form without my name and 
address is an imitation and is absolutely worthless. My name and ad- 
dress : • 

MILO M. TURNER, LL. B., 

9 Cincinnati, Ohio. 



In the following reference is made to Form-Wrought Pattern No. 3 
to find the scales to diagram No. 5 to find the dots, 

A scale, is arm size; B scale, is upper arm, are used only to make 
dot A. 

scale, is arm size; D scale is upper arm, are used only to make 
dotB. 

E scale, is wrist size; F scale, is lower arm, are used only to make 
dot C. 

G scale, is wrist size; H scale, is lower arm, are used only to make 
dot D. 

Agents ake Requested 

To take the correct measurements of the purchaser and write the 
measurements on the inside of cover to book. 

To forward with the second and every subsequent order for systems 
the name and post office address of each purchaser. n 

To draft back, sidebody, front, skirt and sleeve, number each line 



I 



and letter each dot the same as in the diagrams, and leave with the pur- 
chaser. 

Scholars are Reqf/ested 

To study carefully the description of the Form-Wrought Patterns 
before attempting to draft. 

To read each direction separately and do what it directs before read- 
ing the following direction. 

To number the first line drawn 1, the second line 2, etc, in numer- 
ical order, the same as in the diagrams, soon as drawn. 

To letter the first dot made A, the second dot B, etc., in alphabetical 
order, the same as in the diagrams, soon as made. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 
Waist Measurements. 

1. Chest Circumference. — Take a close measurement straight around 
the chest, close up under the arms, just above the bust. 

2. Waist Circumference. — Take a tight measurement around the 
bottom of the waist, under the belt. 

Remark 2. — The difference of the chest and waist circumference is 
the number used for marking the darts. To this rule there are few excep- 
tions. The difference may be increased 1, 2 or 3 numbers for a full bust 
or decreased 1, 2 or 3 numbers for a flat bust. 

Belt. — After taking the chest circumference and waist circumfer 
ence, and before taking the waist length, back length and front length, 
place the elastic belt around the bottom of the waist, one inch lower in 
front than at the side, for all forms, and tie in a bow knot at the side,- 

3. Waist Length. — Measure from under the back of the arm, in the 
position of a correct side-seam, to the lower edge of the belt. 

4. Back Length. — Measure from the back of the neck, at the height 
you desire the dress, down upon the centre of the back to the lower edge 
of the belt. 

5. Front Length. — Measure from the ..front of j the neck, at the 
height you desire the dress, down the centre to the lower edge of the 
belt. 

Remark 3. — Correct measurements cannot be taken without using 
the elastic belt. 

Remark 4, — A decrease in the waist length elevates the neck and 
shoulder outlines; an increase lowers the neck and shoulder outlines. 

Remark 5. — A decrease in the back length lowers the neck and 
shoulder outlines of the back; an increase elevates the neck and shoul- 
der outlines of the back. 



8 

Eemark 6.— A decrease in the front length lowers the neck and 
shoulder outlines of the front, and increase elevates the neck and shoul- 
der outlines of the front. 

Skirt Measurements. 

6. Back Length. — Measure from the bottom of the waist at the 
centre of the back down the length you desire the skirt. 

7. Side Length. — Measure from the bottom of the waist atlthe side 
down the length desired. 

8. Front Length, — Measure from the bottom of the waist at the 
centre down the length you desire the skirt in front. 

Sleeve Measurements. 

Position: The arm should be held in nearly a horizontal position, 
half bent, when taking the measure. 

9. Upper Arm. — Measure from the top of the form-seam on the 
outside of the arm to the elbow. 

10. Lower Arm. — Measure from the elbow to the hand or the length 
you desire the sleeve. 

11. Arm Size: — Measure around the arm close to the body, a little 
tight, or take this measurement from the arm size of the dress after 
basting, 

12. Wrist Size. — Measure around the wrist loosely, so as to slip 
over the closed hand. 

The utmost care and deliberation should be used to secure correct 
measurements. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 
Close Fitting Back. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 1. 

1. Place centre of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1 one inch from the 
«dge of goods with back length one inch from top of goods. 

2. Draw line 1 from back length centre scale to base. 

3. Draw line 2 from line 1 two inches in length to back form. 

4. Place the waist line running from the waist length E scale to 
the lower end of line 1, keeping the centre on line 1. 

If the waist length is nine inches the chart is not moved; if more 
than 9 the chart is moved up as much as the waist length is more than 9. 

5. Make dot A at the waist length A scale. This dot may be 
omitted when the waist length is more than 9. 



i 



6. Dot the letters B, A, C, K, which describe the back form. 

7. Make dot B at the chest circumference B scale. 

8. Make dot C at the chest circumference C scale. 

9. With arm to dots B and C draw line 3. 

10. Place the centre on line 1 with neck to top of line 1. 

11. Draw line 4 from top of line 1 the width of neck and make 
dotD. 

12. With shoulder to dots D and C draw line 5. 

13. With centre to dot A and junction of lines 1 and 4 draw line 6 
from dot A length of skirt. 

Deff. The junction of lines is the point where the lines meet. 

14. With centre to dot D and junction of lines 1 and 2 draw line 7 
from line 2 to back measure for skirt. 

15. Draw line S from line 6 to line 7. 

16. Cut out, allowing only for centre and shoulder seams. 

17. For open back dresses turn down 1% inches for hem and place 
the centre y 2 inch from the outer edge of fold to allow for lap. 

Close-Fitting Sidebody. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 2. 

18. Make dot A at the waist length E scale. 

19. Dot the letters S, I, D, E, which describe the side form. 

20. Make dot B at the chest circumference F scale. 

21. Make dot C at the chest circumference G. scale. 

22. Trace a direct line from the waist circumference H scale to 
hole where it meets a direct line running from waist length I scale and 
make dot D. 

23. With base to dots A and D draw line 1. 

If waist length is more than 9 inches dot the same as when 9 inches 
and draw line 1 as much below dots A and D as the waist length is more 
than 9. 

24. With dart rule to dots D and C draw line 2. 

25. With arm to dots C and B draw line 3. 

26. With centre to dot A and dot made at E draw line 4 from dot 
A the length of line 6, diagram No. 1. 

27. With centre to dot D and dot made at E draw line 5 from dot 
D to side measure for skirt. 

28. Draw line 6 from line 4 to line 5. 

29. Cut out, allowing only for side seam on waist and skirt. 

For Deformed or One-sided Lajdies. 

30. Take the waist length on both sides. 

31. Draft back and side body for each side separately by its own, 
waist length. 



10 



Close-fitting Front. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 3. 

32. Turn down \% inches for hem, 

33. Place the centre of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 2 one half inch 
from the outer edge of the fold to allow for lap. 

Kemark 7. — When hem is not allowed on linings the centre of 
chart is placed % inch from the edge of the lining. 

34. Draw line 1 from front length centre scale to base. 

35. Place the chest circumference A scale to the top of linel, keep- 
ing centre on line 1. 

36. Make dot A on line 1 at the chest circumference A scale. 

37. Make dot B at the chest circumference B scale. 

38. Place the waist line running from the waist length L scale 
to the lower end of line 1, keeping the centre on line 1. 

If the waist length is 9 inches chart is not moved; if more than 9 
chart is moved up as much as the waist length is more than 9. 

39. Make dot C at the chest circumference C scale. 

40. Make dot D at the chest circumference D scale. 

41. Make dot E at the chest circumference E scale. 

42. Make dot F at the difference of the chest and waist circumfer- 
ence F scale. 

43. Make dot G at the difference of the chest and waist circumfer- 
ence G scale. 

44. Make dot H at one star (*) close to the edge of chart. 

45. Make dot I at the difference of the chest and waist circumfer- 
ence II scale. 

46. Place two stars (* *) to dot I. 

47. Make dot J at three stars (* * *). 

48. Make dot K at the difference of the chest and waist circumfer- 
ence I scale. 

-. 49. Place four stars (* * * *) to dot K. 

50. Trace a direct line from the waist circumference J scale to hole 
where it meets a direct line running from the waist length K scale and 
make dot L. 

If the waist length is more than 9 inches make dot L as much below 
the waist circumference as the waist length is more than 9. 

51. Place the base to dot L and lower end of line 1, with centre on 
line 1. 

52. Draw line 2 from dot L to lower end of line 1. 

53. With side to dots L and E draw line 3. 

54. With arm to dots E, D and C draw line 4 from dot E through 
dot D to dot C. 

Remark 8.— The arm's edge must touch all three dots, E, D, C, before 
drawing line 4. 



11 

55. With shoulder to dots B and C draw line 5. 

56. With neck to clots B and A draw line 6. 

57. With dart rule to dots F and I draw line 7 from dot F to line 2. 

58. With dart rule, print side down, to dots F and H draw line 8 
from dot F to line 2. 

59. With dart rule to dots G and K draw line 9 from dot G to 
ine 2. 

60. With dart rule, print side down, to dots G and J draw line 10 
from dot G to line 2. 

Remark 9. — Dots H, I, J, K, only give the width of the darts; line 2 
the length. 

61. With centre draw line 11 from dot F through the centre of the 
front dart as many inches below line 2 as the number used for marking 
the darts. 

62. With centre draw line 12 from dot G through tne centre of the 
back dart the length of line 11. 

63. With centre draw line 13 from junction of lines 2 and 8 to 
lower extremity of line 11. 

64. With centre draw line 14 from junction of lines 2 and 7 to 
lower extremity of line 11. 

65. With centre draw line 15 from junction of lines 2 and 10 to 
lower extremity of line 12. 

66. With centre draw line 16 from junction of lines 2 and 9 to 
lower extremity of line 12. 

67. Make dot M on line 2 same distance from dot L as from junc- 
tion of lines 2 and 9. 

68. With centre draw line 17 from dot C through dot M, six inches 
below line 2. For a basque draw line 17 to the bottom of the skirt. 

69. Make dot X on line 2 between dot M and dot L, % of an inch 
from dot M. 

70. Make dot O on line 2 between dot Mand junction of lines 2 and 
9, % of an inch from dot M. 

Remark 10. — From two stars (* *) to three stars (* * *) is the meas- 
ure for three- fourths of an inch. 

71. With centre draw line 18 from junction of lines 4 and 17 to dot 
JST on line 2. Slant line 18 below line 2 from dot iST to line 17. 

72. With dart rule, print side down, draw line 19 from junction of 
lines 4 and 17 to dot O on line 2. 

Curve line 19 below line 2 from dot O to line 17. Line 19 is curved 
out above line 2; in below line 2. 

73. With centre to dots C and L draw line 20 from dot L to side 
measure for skirt. Round below the waist, over the hip, as per dotted 
line, with arm size of back. 

74. Extend line 1 from line 2 to front measure for skirt. 

75. Draw line 21 from lower extremity of line 20 to lower extrem- 
ity of line 1, in shape to suit the style. 



12 

76. Cut out, allowing only for side and shoulder seams. 

77. For open back dresses no hem is turned and the centre is placed 
at the edge of the goods. 

Remark 11. — The preceeding directions draft the back, sidebodyand 
front, both waist and skirt, to a basque, polonaise or any close-fitting 
garment. 



FRENCH WAIST. 
Close-Fitting Back. 

In -the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 4. 

78. Place the centre one inch from the edge of goods, with back 
length one inch from top of goods. 

79. Draw line 1 from back length to base. 

80. Draw line 2 from line 1 to waist circumference, less 2, H scale. 

81. Make dot A at the end of line 2. 

82. Place the waist line running from the waist length E scale 
to the end of line 1, keeping centre on line 1. 

If the waist length is 9 inches chart is not moved; if more than 9 
chart is moved up as much as the waist length is more than 9. 

83. Make dot B at the chest circumference G scale. 

84. Make dot C at the chest circumference C scale, 

85. With dart rule to dots A and B draw line 3. 

86. With arm to dots B and C draw line 4. 

87. Place the neck to top of line 1, with centre on line 1. 

88. Draw line 5 from line 1 the width of neck and make dot D. 

89. With shoulder to dots D and C draw line 6. 

90. Cut out, allowing only for centre, side and shoulder seam. 
Remark 12. — The outside is usually cut without seam at the centre 

of back. 



FRENCH WAIST. 
Close-Fitting Front, One Dart. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 3. 

91. Turn down \% inches for hem. 

92. Place the centre y 2 mcn from the outer edge of fold. 

93. Draw line 1 from front length to base. 

94. Place the chest circumference A scale to the top of line 1, keep- 
ing centre on line 1. 

95. Make dot A at the chest circumference A scale. 



13 

96. Make dot B at the chest circumference B scale. 

97. Place the waist^line running from the waist length L scale to 
lower end of line 1, keeping centre on line 1. 

If waist length is 9 inches chart is not moved; if more than 9 the 
chart is moved up as much as the waist length is more than 9. 

98. Make dot C at the chest circumference C scale. 

99. Make dot D at the chest circumference D scale. 

100. Make dot E at the chest circumference E scale. 

101. Make dot H at the letter H. 

102. Place one star (*) to dot H. 

103. Make dot F at the difference of the chest and waist circum- 
ference, increased by 1, 2 or 3 numbers, F scale. 

104. Make dot I at the same number H scale. 

105. Tlace four stars (* * * *j to dot I. 

106. Trace a direct line from the waist circumference J scale to 
hole where it meets a direct line running from the waist length K scale 
and make dot L. 

If the waist length is more than 9 inches dot L is made as much 
below the waist circumference as the waist length is more than 9. 

107. Place the base to dot L and lower end of line 1. with centre 
on line 1 . 

108. Draw line 2 from dot L to lower end of line 1. 

109. With dart rule, print side up, to dots L and E draw line 3. 

110. With arm to dots C, D and E draw line 4. 

111. With shoulder to dots B and C draw line 5. 

112. With neck to dots A and B draw line 6. 

113. With dart rule to dots F and I draw line 7 from dot F to line 2. 

114. With dart rule, print side down, to dots F and H draw line 8 
from dot F to line 2. 

115. With centre rule draw line 18 from line 4 to line 2, about 2% 
inches from line 3, at the arm and waist. 

116. AVith dart rule, print side down, draw line 19 from junction of 
lines 4 and 18 to line 2, an inch and a half from line 18. 

117. Cut out, allowing only for side and shoulder seams. 
Slender forms are very neatly fitted with the French waist. 

Half-Fitting Back. 

118. Add two numbers to the chest circumference scale G. .- ■:. ,, , 

119. Add four numbers to the waist circumference, scale H. 

Half-Fitting Front. 

120. Is drafted the same as when close-fitting, with one or two 
darts, with or without under-arm-seam. 



14 

121. When under-arm-seam is not required drop three numbers 
from the waist circumference, J scale. 

Loose Back. 

122. Dot the same as the French waist, adding two numbers to the 
chest circumference, G scale. 

123. Draw line 2 (diagram No. 4) from line 1, through dot A, in 
length the distance of dot B from line 1. 

124. Draw line 3 from dot B to the end of line 2. 

125. Draw lines 4, 5 and 6 the same as the French waist. 

Loose Front. 

126. Draft the same as for close-fitting garments, diagram No. 3 
omitting the darts. 

127. When under arm seam is not required drop three numbers 
from the waist circumference, J scale. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED GARMENTS. 

128. Draw line 1 (diagram No. 3) two and one-half inches from the 
edge of goods and draft as usual. 



OUTSIDE GARMENTS, CLOAKS, ETC. 
Back. 

129. Add one number to the chest circumference, B,C and F scales; 
three numbers to the chest circumference, G scale. 

130. Add five numbers to the waist circumference, H scale. 

Front. 

131. Add one number to the chest circumference, A, B, C, D and E 
scales. 

132. Add one number to the waist circumference, J scale,. 

133. Outside garments generally require % inch less length of 
waist. 



15 



Sleeve. 



134. Add one number to the arm size, A and C scales. 

135. Add one number to the wrist size, E and G scales. 



STOOPED OR ROUND SHOULDERS. 

Back. 

136. Add two numbers to the chest circumference, G, B, F and C 
scales. 

Front. 

137." Drop one number from the chest circumference, A.B, C, D and 
£ scales. 



GARMENTS WITHOUT DARTS FOR CHILDREN. 

138. Measure and draft the same as for ladies, according to previ- 
ous directions. 

139. Measure from dot L on line 2 the width of the darts and dot. 

140. Draw line 3 from this dot to dot E, to exclude from the waist 
size wiiat the system has allowed for darts. See diagram No. 3. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TRACING, CUTTING AND BASTING. 

141. Diagram No. ] . — Trace lines 1, 2, 5 and 7. Cut in lines 4, 3, 8 
and 6 and through the four dots not lettered. 

142. Diagram No. 2. — Trace lines 1, 2 and 5. Cut in lines 3, 4 and 
6 and through the four dots not lettered. 

143. Diagram No. 3.— Trace lines 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18 
and 19 and the dotted line. Cut in lines 4, 6 and 21. 

144. Diagram No. 4. — Trace, on lines 1, 2, 3 [and 6. Cut in lines 5 
anfl 4. 

145. Fold the darts in the centre and baste down. 

146. Match the waist lines 1, 2 and 2 with certainty and accuracy 
and baste the centre, form and side seams up from the bottom of the 
waist to the neck and arm. 

147. The seams of the skirt are basted from the waist down. 

148. Commence at the neck to baste the shoulder seam. When the 
shoulder seam of the back is longer than the shouider seam of the front 



16 

the former should be held a little full when basting, and the front should 
be stretched at the hollow of the shoulder. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOB DRAFTING EVERY VARIETY 
AND STYLE OF GARMENT. 

149. Procure a descriptive catalogue of fashions, which tells whether 
the garment illustrated is close, half or loose fitting. 

150. Follow my directions tor close-fitting, wh^n you wish to draft 
any style that is close-fitting. 

151. Follow my directions for half-fitting, when you wish to draft 
any style that is half-fitting. 

152. Follow my directions for loose-fitting, when you wish to draft 
any style that is loose-fitting. 

153. The length of the skirt and shape of drapery can be drafted to 
suit the fashion. 

Remark 13. — A very little observation and practice will enable you 
to draft any style of garment worn, after reading the description given 
in the catalogue. 



SLEEVE FITTING 

Has become of late one of the most difficult and important arts 
since the fashion now requires a close and perfect-fitting sleeve. It must 
be shaped to the arm life-like, fitted to the arm-size, curved exactly at the 
bend of the elbow; must be of perfect length and the correct size for the 
hand. Form-Wrought Pattern No. 3 effects all this in about one minute 
of time, and from the most reliable princible — actual measurement. We 
do guarantee a perfect fit without alteration. No lady should be with- 
out it who values her time or reputation. Ciu; paper parterns are relia- 
ble only for style, and invariably require fitting. 



LADIES' COAT SLEEVE, DIAGRAM NO. 5. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 5. 

154. Turn the two wrong sides and selvedge edges of the goods to_ 
gether. 

155. Place the inside rule on the selvedge. 

156. Trace a direct line from the arm-size A scale to hole where it 
meets a direct line running from length of upper arm B scale and make 
dot A. . : 



1?: 

157. Trace a direct line from arm-size C scale to hole where it meets 
a direct line running from length of upper arm D scale and make dot B. 

158. Trace a direct line from wrist size E scale to hole where it 
meets a direct line running from length of lower arm F scale and make 
dotC. 

159. Trace a direct line from wrist size G scale to hole where it 
meets a direct line running to length of lower arm H scale and make 
dotD. 

160. Place the outside rule to dots A and C with line running from 
length of upper arm to dot A. 

161. Draw line 1 from dot A to dot C. 

162. Place the head rule to dots A and B with opposite corners 
equally distant from opposite dot's A and B, 

163. Draw line 2 from dot A to dot B. 

164. Place the inside rule to dots B and D. 

165. Draw line 3 from dot B to dot D. 

166. Place the hand rule to dots C and D. 

167. Draw line 4 from dot C to dot D. 

168. Cut out, allowing one-half inch for seam. 

Right Sleeve. 

169. These directions draft the top side of the right sleeve, which 
is cut from the under side of the goods. The under side of the right 
sleeve is cut by it from the top side of the goods. It is the same size 
and form except as varied by the dotted line, as seen in diagram No. 5« 
Underside is drawn by placing the head rule to dots A and B with the 
word head to dot B, then rule from dot B to within one inch of dot A. 
Shape from thence to elbow by outside rule. 

Left Sleeve. 

170. Place the right sides of the right sleeve next to the right side 
of the goods, and cut the left sleeve. The top side of the sleeve will lie 
in front when the sleeve is sewed in. The outside seam of sleeve is 
placed to the form-seam in the back when sewing the sleeve into the 
waist. 



PUFFED SLEEVE. 
171. Add two numbers to the arm size, A and C scales. 



18 



GATHERED SLEEVE. 

In the following directions reference is made to diagram No. 5. 

172. Draft top side of ladies coat sleeve as for diagram No. 5. 

173. Letter the dots and number the lines same as before. 

174. Extend line 2 above dot A two inches. Extend line 4 above 
dot C one and a half inches. 

175. Make dot E on line 2 between dots A and B, two inches from 
dot A. 

176. Make dot F at the end of line 2 two inches from dot A. 

177. Make dot G on line 4 between dots C and D, one and a half 
inches from dot C. 

178. Make dot H at the end of line 4, one and a half inches from 
dotC. 

179. With centre of Form-Wrought Pattern No, 1 draw line 5 from 
dot F to dot B. 

180. Place outside rule to dots F and H, with line running from 
length of lower arm to dot H. 

181. Draw line 6 from dot H to dot F for top side of sleeve. 

182. Place outside rule to dots G and E, with length of lower arm 
to dot G. 

183. Draw line 7 from dot G to line 5 for gathered sleeve, one inch 
longer if not gathered, for under side. 

184. Place head rule to dot B and end of line 7, with the word 
head to dot B. 

185. Draw line 8 from dot B to end of line 7 for under side. The 
top side of the sleeve is gathered at the elbow. 

Remark 14. — Lines 5, 6, 7, 8, and dots E, F, G, H, are not given in 
diagram No. 5. 



ALL IMITATIONS 



-OF THIS- 



SYSTEM IN PATTERN FORM 



ARE 



ABSOLUTELY WORTHLESS, 



AGENTS ^KT A IbT T E ID 



Ladies who have a successful experience in the agency business and 
desire personal instruction can arrange the place and time for learning 
by mail if they wish to sell the system. Direct to 

MILO M, TURNER, LL B„ CINCINNATI, OHIO, 



This system is a great marvel. Its simplicity, speed and perfectness 
is so transparent and self-evident that agents have no difficulty in effect- 
ing sales. Everybody buys this system who has money and can. Its use 
is learned without difficulty from the printed directions or can be thor- 
oughly taught in twenty minutes. Other systems require from one to 
ten days to teach their use and unless paid for before learned cannot be 
sold. We draft directly upon the cloth in from three to five minutes 
any style of garment. Other systems require from one to three hours to 
draft the same garment less accurately. This system will supply a long 
felt need among dressmakers and housekeepers. Business ladies can 
purchase this system very cheap at wholesale to supply their appren- 
tices. Send for price list. Address 

IMXLO IML TTJ-R2STE-K, HiL- ZB-„ 
CINCINNATI, OHIO. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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in 



inn 

013 964 948 5 % 



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Sam 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 948 5 



Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



